Window cleaning questions, answered

Usually, yes. Email us photos showing each side of your home and we can estimate most jobs without a visit. It saves you scheduling a walkthrough, and if anything looks unclear in the pictures we'll tell you rather than guess.

Call us at (208) 604-2307 and we'll set up a free estimate. We walk the property with you, count the windows or look over the surfaces, and talk through what you're actually trying to fix. You'll get a number before we start, not after.

Rooflines, gables, peaks, and trees, for homes and businesses. We walk the property with you first to plan the layout, then come back once everything is lit to look at it together.

Not the way we attach them. We use clean, professional attachment that doesn't damage the roof or trim, which matters more than it sounds like it should. Staples and nails are how a season of lights turns into a roof repair.

Paint specks, silicone smears, stucco splatter, and overspray are all standard on a post construction clean. So is the fine concrete dust that's had months to bond to the surface. It isn't dirt, and it needs a different approach than a normal wash.

It will if you go at it wrong, which is exactly why new construction glass gets ruined so often. Concrete dust and stucco splatter are abrasive, and dragging a blade across them at the wrong angle marks the pane permanently. We match the blade, solvent, and technique to the residue and work carefully.

Yes, including the ones that have been baked on by months of sun. Those labels and the adhesive under them are a specific problem on new builds, and they don't come off the way dirt does. We use the right blades and solvents for each type of residue.

Fences, gates, pergolas, and deck framing are all included. We get the rails, spindles, and posts, not just the deck boards, so the whole structure matches when we're done.

Yes. Composite doesn't weather the way wood does, but it still collects grime and organic growth, and it still needs the pressure kept down. We clean it the same careful way.

It can, which is why we don't do it that way. Too much pressure furs up the grain and leaves permanent wand marks in the boards. Cleaning wood takes patience rather than power, so we work at low pressure with the right solution and let the wood come back on its own terms.

We won't, and that's deliberate. Pressure is right for concrete, brick, and pavers, but it drives water behind siding and furs up wood grain. Those get soft washed or cleaned at low pressure instead. We never trade a clean surface for a damaged one.

We pre-treat oil spots, rust, and organic growth before we ever start washing, which is what actually lifts them. Deep, old stains don't always come out completely, and we'll tell you what to expect when we look at it rather than promising and hoping.

Not if it's done with a surface cleaner, which is what we use. Wand stripes happen when someone cleans a big flat slab with a narrow nozzle and misses the overlap. We clean evenly so the whole surface comes out one color.

Eventually something will, since the shade and moisture that caused it are still there. But soft washing kills the growth at the source rather than knocking it off the surface, so it stays clean far longer than a rinse would manage.

Never. High pressure blasts the protective granules off asphalt shingles, which shortens the life of the roof and voids most warranties. We soft wash instead: low pressure, shingle-safe detergents, and a gentle rinse.

Eaves, soffits, and trim are part of the wash, not just the flat walls. Those are the spots that hold cobwebs and grime, and skipping them is how a clean house still looks dirty from the driveway.

The pressure, and what it's aimed at. Hard surfaces like concrete, brick, and pavers can take real pressure, so we pressure wash those. Siding, roofs, and wood can't, so we soft wash those instead. We match the method to the material every time.

Not the way we do it. High pressure drives water behind siding and strips paint, so we don't use it on your house. We apply a cleaning solution at low pressure, let the detergent do the work, and rinse gently. The result is a house that looks maintained rather than a house that looks blasted.

We do, and you can book inside and out together or just the outside. Plenty of customers schedule several exterior cleanings a year and one interior. We'll need someone to let us in for the interior work.

Yes. We work at height year-round and have the equipment to get to multi-story and hard-to-reach glass safely. If there's a window in your house you've never cleaned because you couldn't get to it, that's usually the one we're here for.

Usually, yes. Sprinkler overspray dries on the glass and leaves calcium and magnesium behind, and that haze doesn't come off with a rag and a bottle of cleaner. We treat the deposits directly. Years of buildup sometimes takes more than one treatment, and severe cases need a different initial service than a standard wash, which we'll tell you at the estimate rather than after.

We clean the whole window, not just the glass. Screens and frames are part of the job on every estimate, because a spotless pane behind a dusty screen and a grimy frame is only half the work. Your estimate covers the complete clean, so you know up front exactly what is included.

Clean glass doesn't spot from clean rain, so most of the time it's fine. But if a storm kicks up dust and leaves your windows looking worse than when we started, call us. We've come back and redone homes after wind and rain more than once.

Yes. We carry liability insurance and can provide a certificate before we start if you'd like to see it. We're on roofs and ladders year-round, and being properly covered is part of doing that work responsibly.

Because it's the single most dangerous thing most homeowners do all year: climbing to the roofline in the cold, on frozen ground, usually in the dark because the sun set at five. We do this work at height year-round and have the equipment and the footing for it.

Early. Schedules fill before the season starts and we can't add days to December. Call (208) 604-2307 to get on the list.

After the trades are done and before handoff. Cleaning while work is still going means doing it twice. Call (208) 604-2307 once you know your date and we'll get on the schedule.

It depends on where you sit. Homes near farm ground or with sprinklers hitting the glass need it more often than a sheltered lot. Most of our customers land on a quarterly or bi-monthly schedule for the outside with the interior done once a year, and a lot of them are on that schedule because the wind and dust out here make a once-a-year clean look old fast.

Yes. We schedule visits in advance and send reminder texts before we come. If we're running behind, you'll hear from us rather than wonder where we are.

Yes. We run discounted monthly and quarterly schedules, and most of our customers end up on one. It's cheaper per visit than calling us once a year, and it means the dust and hard water never get a chance to build into a real problem.

We protect and pre-wet the surrounding plants and beds before we start, then finish with a rinse and a walkthrough with you. It's the same care we take on a house wash.

We protect and pre-wet the plants, beds, and gutters below before we start, and we clear debris out of the valleys and gutter lines as part of the job. Then we walk it with you to confirm the result.

We protect and pre-wet plants, beds, and landscaping before we start, which is standard on every house wash. It's part of the job, not something you have to ask for.

For exterior work, no. For interior window cleaning we do need access, so someone has to let us in. Either way we finish with a walkthrough, so if you can be there at the end it's worth it.

We supply the lights as part of the package, along with the install and the takedown. They're commercial-grade rather than hardware-store strands, which is why they hold up to an Idaho winter. We store them off-season, so you're not finding boxes in the garage in July.

Yes, and it's included. Takedown comes with the install, so nothing is still hanging off your roofline in March. That's the part most people forget to ask about until it's cold and they're the ones on the ladder.

Builders, contractors, and homeowners all call us for the final clean before handoff. We finish with a walkthrough with whoever is signing off, so nothing gets missed on the last day.

Usually not. The wood underneath is generally fine; what you're looking at is a weathered gray layer sitting on top of it. Lift that off and the color comes back. Sun, winter moisture, and freeze-thaw cycles do that to every deck out here given a few seasons.

Almost always dirty. That gray film is years of dust, oil, tire marks, and organic growth pressed into the surface, and most people assume it's the color of the slab. When we clean one section the difference is usually startling enough to answer the question.

Left long enough, yes. Moss works its way under the shingle edges and pries them apart, which turns a cleaning problem into a roofing bill. That's the main reason to deal with it before it spreads.

Because that's the side that stays shaded and damp. Moss and lichen take hold where moisture lingers, and everywhere else the roof just collects dust, needles, and debris that hold moisture against the shingles.

Sun and altitude pull a chalky residue out of vinyl and paint over time, and out here it mixes with farm dust, road grit, and sprinkler overspray. It builds slowly enough that most people stop noticing it, right up until one side gets cleaned and the difference is obvious.

We have a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If something isn't right when we're done, tell us and we come back and fix it. We'd rather make a return trip than leave you looking at a window you're unhappy with.